Convert 8Mm Film To Dvd Near Me latest 2023

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DIY Film and Video Transfers

Most of us have movies or videos that really should be transferred to DVD. The good news is that video transfers aren’t that difficult. And the more old film or tape you have, the more it will be worth doing this conversion to DVD or digital video yourself. So, in this article, I will give you some tips to transfer your own movie and video. But first, a little advice to get started.

5 tips before you start

1. The original is always the best: If you have 8mm, regular or Super 8, or even 16mm film that has already been transferred to VHS video, be sure to work with the original film and not the VHS or VHS-C tapes. Why? Because VHS is a fairly low resolution video storage medium. The picture produced when playing an old VHS tape on your VCR is equivalent to about 250 to 300 lines of horizontal resolution on your TV. Standard definition television (NTSC) is 480 lines; high definition is 720. Going back to your original movies and converting them back will always be your best bet.

2. Be realistic: Older home theater cameras just weren’t that great, so the video you create from this one won’t be any better. Take Super 8: The film size was tiny and was terrible in low light, camera focusing was often a problem, Super 8 cameras had no image stabilization or color balancing, it there’s usually no audio (and if there is, it’s compromised) and the frame rate was low (super 8 recorded at 18 fps) compared to today’s 30 fps . As I said, be realistic when looking at the results of your 8mm film conversion.

3. Create a master video file: Eh? We started this article by agreeing that we want to transfer our old home movies to DVD. In fact, DVD is not the best digital video quality you can get. DVDs are created using the MPEG-2 format, which has been a very efficient but highly compressed format for many years, but is now a somewhat outdated video codec.

Don’t get me wrong – DVDs are still a great way to watch video transferred from home movies, but your best bet is to create a master file of uncompressed video first (since you’re already going through the trouble of converting your pictures). You can then use this master file to edit, create your DVD, or your online video, or your iPhone video, or your hard drive archive of family videos, photos, and documents, or whatever you have in mind (or your children may have in mind – in the future). With uncompressed video, you keep your options open.

4. Most improvements will come while editing: A good film transfer is important and depending on your film history, careful cleaning can bring you some improvements. But the “OMG” moment will only come once the thing has passed through the editing suite. Why? Because your personal footage – shot on daylight balanced film – will have been recorded under a range of “unbalanced daylight” conditions: some scenes will be too yellow (shot indoors under electric lights ), too blue (shot outdoors in the shade or on a cloudy day), too dark or too bright. And you might have a few just useless snaps (we all do) that you’d rather lose from the finale.

Correcting each of these issues will require a scene-by-scene inspection and a scene-by-scene approach. It’s pretty easy to do and pretty quick once you get the hang of it: a basic color correction filter in a standard editing program like Final Cut Pro will do.

5. Decide if it’s worth doing a DIY film transfer: If you have an old reel or two of film or a video tape or two, it may be much easier to go to your local video transfer service provider and have them do the job.

But if you have a shoebox full of stuff, it might be a good idea to do it yourself. And, like I said, it’s not that hard.

Video conversions for different formats

8 mm or 16 mm film transfer: You’ll need that old projector to convert 8mm or 16mm film to video. (Sorry, the only magic machine with a door that takes an old roll of film and rolls out digital video is the professional video conversion company!) Whether you do it yourself or take it to the guy at the mall, the movie will become played and then recorded.

The basic, do-it-yourself method of converting old home movies on 8mm or 16mm film to video is as follows: simply project the film onto a screen (of any size) and save the result to video ( digital). You get quite a good result by doing this: provided you pay attention to the focus of the projector, have a nice flat screen, turn off stray light sources, adjust your video camera correctly and position it on a tripod as close to the projector as possible.

There are two significant challenges to overcome with this film transfer method. First, there is the potential for distorted aspect ratio – “key stoning” caused by the difference in position between your video camera and the projector lens. The answer is to correct the distortion in editing (pretty simple) or to project in a film transfer box with internal angled mirrors.

The second challenge is to reconcile the frame rates between the original 8mm film and your video camera. Provided you can synchronize the frame rates, by adjusting the projector or the video camera or both, you can settle on a final output frame rate when you get the video into your computer.

Transferring VHS and VHS-C tapes: Many weddings ended up on VHS tapes and are now trapped there. The video company may have filmed on higher resolution media, but the product was usually delivered on VHS and the original recording is almost always lost.

Either way, you have three basic options for digitizing those old VHS tapes. First, buy a DVD-VHS dual player at your local Best Buy, pop in your tape, pop in a DVD, and record! Simple, efficient and fast. The other side of the coin, the result will not be of the best quality. Keep in mind that VHS was never great to begin with – so you might not be able to tell the difference in the outcome. And, if you want to create a digital video file, just rip the DVD you just created to your computer.

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